Wednesday, April 24, 2024 | 08:42 WIB

Lawu Mountain climbing trail, a mysterious
path straddling two provinces

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Gupakan Menjangan
Gupakan Menjangan, one of the highest savannahs in Indonesia – a highlight of the Candi Cetho climbing route.

Higher up Mount Lawu via the Cetho route is the Patirtan Sapto Resi, the Fount of the Seven Sages. It is accessed through a long stone stairway, flanked with a row of golden umbrellas. It is like heading out to meet royalty or holy personages… As in the Candi Cetho site, you are to cover yourself with the cloth provided by the kuncen or site-keeper at the bottom of the stairs. 

At the top is the ancient fountain, comprised of seven holes drilled in the stone to constantly let out clear, pure water from Mount Lawu’s underground springs. Climbers are allowed to cleanse themselves using the spring water, take a dip, and even drink the waters after their climb. As in many other places, the waters are believed to contain blessings such as bringing luck and fortune, healing prolonged illnesses, getting rid of misfortune and evil influences, and attracting one’s true love. And like in many other places, the bottom of the pond is littered with coins thrown in by believers. 

Stops along the Way 

Keep it up and you will get to Resting Stop 1, the Mbah Branti Stop at an altitude of 1702 m asl. From here on, we notice that each Stop along the Mount Lawu trail contains a small house-shaped wrought iron altar to place offerings on. Other than burnt incense, you can see snacks being offered for the safety and smoothness of the journey. 

The next stop, Resting Stop 2 (Brak Seng), is located at an altitude of 1906 m asl, about 1,034 meter away from Mbah Branti. You will start to notice that the path is starting to slope from up here, and that you are entering a forest of damar gum trees. 

Resting Stop 3, the Cemoro Dowo Stop, requires you to become more aware of your situation. Take more care and concentrate better, as the path becomes steeper as we go from here. Even worse, if you traverse it when it rains, it becomes very slick and slippery and the water can even flow in runnels around your very feet. Located at an altitude of 2,251 m asl, it is one of climbers’ favorite resting stops, with its modern water pipe and faucets. Furthermore, in clear night, you get to see the tiny lights of homes blinking in the distance – all the way from Karanganyar to Sragen, as well as the lights stretching down the quiet, long Trans Java Toll Road. 

Mount Lawu
A climber crossing through Gupakan Menjangan on a fne day.

Your adrenaline will be pumped again as you climb from Resting Stop 3 to Resting Stop 4 (Penggik) at 2,550 m asl. It’s an exhausting journey, greatly mitigated by the beauty of the pine forest that surrounds you as you continue your way up the path. 

Resting Stop 5 (Bulak Peperangan) at an altitude of 2,861 m asl, is also a favorite rest area for climbers because of its relatively fat site, dominated by a savannah of yellowish green grass that grows more lushly in the rain. This stop is a historic battle site, where Majapahit soldiers led by King Brawijaya V fiercely fought with their Demak counterparts, under the command of Raden Patah. It has even been said that you can hear the bruits of their battles some nights. 

451 meters away from Bulak Peperangan, you will arrive at Gupak Menjangan Resting Stop, at 2,952 m asl. This area is famous for being an enclave of wild deer. 

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